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California cabernets can be good values

Don't let sweeping generalizations form your opinion.

October 26, 2011 at 10:21PM

A Cabernet Sauvignon by Josh Cellars. (Provided photo/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

It's nothing like the merlot meltdown of a half-decade ago, but I've been hearing a bit of California cab-bashing of late.

"They're kind of boring, monolithic."

"They're too jammy, like cocktail wine."

"Too much alcohol."

"They don't age that well/it's hard to know when to drink them."

And of course, "They're just too doggone spendy."

While there's some validity to all these points, these sentiments are far too sweeping, like saying that chardonnays are too buttery when so many are the essence of minerality and acidity. Besides, cabernet is what made many of us fall in love with fermented grape juice, and so often it has provided those magical "ah, so this is what wine is all about" moments.

The most prevalent of the truisms is that "it's impossible to find a decent bottle of California cabernet for 10 bucks [or 20]." Not so, though I admit that too many inexpensive Cali-cabs are fruit bombs with little structure that perhaps should be sold at Candyland rather than Haskell's.

I'm particularly impressed by the work that some negotiants are doing. These folks grow no grapes but buy lots from different areas and make wine from them. Among the best are Jim Tonjum (Different Drummer Paso Robles Cab, around $10), Mel Masters (Tortoise Creek Cherokee Lane Lodi, $12) and Mutt Lynch (Chateau d'Og Central Coast, $15).

These are distinctly California wines, with large-ish fruit flavors but also enough tannins to provide body and backbone and at least somewhat elegant finishes. They are delicious fall sippers and also play well with the roasted meats that are a staple of our lengthy winters.

Drink now, not later

They also are not meant for long aging. Like 95 percent of the wine out there, they should be consumed within a year or two of purchase and in most cases no more than five years after the vintage date.

That generally holds true at the next price tier, where the Louis M. Martini Sonoma County ($17), Martin Ray Napa-Mendocino-Sonoma ($18) and Irony Napa ($18, often cheaper) are consistent winners.

All of these wines drink well above their price points. But that's also true of many pricier California cabernets, some of which have Minnesota connections. Terra Valentine (owned by Angus Wurtele), Ladera (Pat Stotesbery), O'Shaughnessy (Betty O'Shaughnessy), Fantesca (Duane and Susan Hoff) and Kitchak Cellars (Peter Kitchak) produce delicious, cellar-worthy wines from various locales in the Napa Valley.

While he's not from these parts, Tim Mondavi, son of Iron Range native Robert, makes perhaps the most profound, expressive cabernet I've tasted in recent years at his new Continuum winery. For those who can afford it, this is about as good a way to spend $150 as I can imagine.

But for one-tenth that much, it's easy for the savvy shopper to thoroughly enjoy California cab.

Bill Ward • bill.ward@startribune.com