
The burger: A few Saturdays ago at Harriet Island in St. Paul, a sellout crowd of 2,500 burger lovers turned out for the third-annual Twin Cities Burger Battle. Twenty-five Twin Cities restaurants competed.
Attendees handed the People's Choice award to Peppers & Fries for its Bangkok Burger, a beef patty topped with cream cheese, Asian garlic sauce, Sriracha-infused coleslaw, cilantro and fresh jalapenos, all served on a toasted bun from P.J. Murphy's Bakery. It's not on the menu — yet — but it will be, as soon as a reprint goes through. In the meantime, the Bangkok is available for those who know to ask for it. Price: $10.95, which includes fries or chips and salsa.
The competition's five judges went in another direction, and It's easy to understand why they gave their love to the double-patty burger that Red Cow owner Luke Shimp has christened the Double Barrel.
There's clearly a lot to love. The beef is a finely-calibrated in-house blend of chuck, rib eye, brisket and short rib, all aged 21 days to accentuate the meat's flavor. Each thinnish patty is formed from a 4-oz. meatball. Yeah, that adds up to a half-pound of beef.
"That's a lot of burger," said Shimp. "But you get a lot of flavor."
Right on both counts. Flattened on the flattop, the patties are grilled to a sizzled char on the outside; on the inside, the color -- more ruby than pink -- suggests a notch or two south of medium-rare. This is a notably tender and juicy burger.
On its journey to the winner's circle, Team Red Cow adapted all kinds of make-or-break strategies. Here's one example: fashioning a white Cheddar into a proprietary American-style cheese. Well, an American cheese minus the usual glaring, caution-sign color.
'"It seems like the most popular burgers are the ones with two patties and American cheese," said Shimp. "We're culinarians, so we said to ourselves, 'Let's make our own cheese.' We worked on it for three months — I think we probably went through 10 to 15 five-pound batches to get the right ratios — and I can't tell you how sick I am of eating American cheese."