The Juicy Lucia -- great name, right? -- began as a birthday wish. A few weeks ago, ASI curator Curt Pedersen shared his natal day hankering for a Juicy Lucy -- the iconic cheese-stuffed burger -- with chef Dustin Thompson, who had overseen, to that point anyway, a burger- and fries-free operation. "We had a little time in the kitchen, so we sort of threw it together, and everyone really liked it," said Thompson.
It's easy to see why. Thompson cleverly avails himself of every opportunity to translate basic Juicy Lucy components into Fika-speak. Naturally, the Juicy Lucia is served smorgas-style, an open-face sandwich that calls upon a sturdy slice of caraway rye bread. Those hoping for a crack at the kitchen's hearty Danish rye, look elsewhere, since that signature loaf "can mask flavors if you pair it with the wrong thing," explained Thompson.
The rough-hewn patty is composed of fatty brisket, and stuffed with Vasterbotten, the firm, teasingly salty cow's milk cheese that is the Swedish equivalent of Parmesan. It pairs beautifully with the rich, medium-rare beef.
From there, Thompson unfurls the Swedish culinary flags and lets them fly, including a creamy whole-grain mustard sauce and vinegar-ey pickles culled from the menu's meatballs. Along with sweetly caramelized onions, the finishing touch is a plucky flag of zesty red watercress, its deep green hues a tonic to winter-addled eyes. "I love that stuff," said Thompson. "When I can get it I tend to throw it on everything."
It's definitely a knife-and-fork burger -- a plus in Juicy Lucyland, since there's little danger of molten cheese dribbles wreaking havoc on diners' laps -- done up in Fika's modernist sensibilities. It's also ridiculously delicious.
Price: $12.
Fries: Included, and a decent effort for a first-time French fry. To no one's surprise, they are served with a tangy lingonberry ketchup.
