Eventually we grow weary of fresh corn. Hard to believe, but true. Since the morning the ears hit the farmers market, I've been feasting on grilled corn, roasted corn, boiled corn slathered with butter, chile and lime, olive oil, lemon, and chopped basil. But now it's time to change things up. My latest favorite is pan-roasting those fresh plump kernels cut right from the cob.

When tossed in a cast iron skillet set over a tame flame, the corn's sweet, straightforward flavors are transformed as the sugars caramelize to a deep crusty brown. The method is quick and easy and the crisped golden nuggets will spark soups, salads or the batters for pancakes, muffins or cornbread. Store them in a freezer bag for a wintry dish. Ehler's Store in Cornucopia, Wis., our favorite stop on the way to Madeline Island, sells a rich, crumbly cornmeal cookie studded with pan-roasted corn.

An ear of corn will typically yield a scant cup of corn kernels. To cut the kernels from the cob, stand the cob upright in a shallow bowl and with a paring knife cut down along the kernels as close to the cob as you can. Dig that knife in because you'll also release the "corn milk" into the bowl. For 3 to 4 cups of kernels, use a ratio of about 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, coconut oil, olive oil, hazelnut oil or vegetable oil to pan-roast.

Please, hang onto the corncobs! They make fabulous stock. Put them into a large pot with just enough water to cover, set over high heat, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer for about an hour. Remove and discard the cobs and allow the stock to cool before storing in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to a week, or freeze, ready to use as a base for soups, stews, sauces and sautés.

When shopping for corn, the farmers market is your best bet; try to get there early in the day while the corn is super fresh. Look for corn with bright green husks and ears with plump kernels. The kernels at the top should be smaller than the rest (larger kernels mean the corn is overmature). Avoid those with wilted or dried husks or depressed kernels. Try to eat the corn as soon as possible, and keep the husks on until ready to cook.

If you must keep corn for a day or two, cover the unhusked corn with a damp kitchen towel and store in the refrigerator. Such a sweet dilemma, too much corn!

Hot and Tangy Pan Roasted Corn

Serves 4.

Note: Make this now, while tomatoes and corn are at their peak. It's one of those dishes you can eat three times a day. For breakfast, top with a fried egg; for lunch, add crumbled feta cheese; for dinner, toss in grilled chicken or steak. From Beth Dooley.

• 4 to 6 ears fresh corn, shucked

• 2 tbsp. vegetable oil

• 1/4 c. chopped onion

• Generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste

• 1 to 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, to taste

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 c. sliced cherry tomatoes

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh basil, for garnish

Directions

Use a sharp paring knife to strip the kernels from the corn by standing the corn up on its wide end in a shallow bowl and cutting down the length of the ear.

Film a large, heavy large skillet with the oil and set over medium-high heat. Add the corn and the onion and spread so that the kernels evenly cover the surface of the pan. Sear the corn, shaking the pan occasionally, and stirring so that it is nicely browned, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Place it in a bowl, season with the pepper flakes, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste.

Place on a serving plate or individual dishes, and arrange the tomatoes on top of the corn. Garnish with the chopped basil.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories170Fat8 gSodium3 mg Carbohydrates24 gSaturated fat1 g

Total sugars6 gProtein4 gCholesterol0 mgDietary fiber3 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 ½ starch, 1 ½ fat.

Beth Dooley is the author of "In Winter's Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.