Best squash soup tastes even better with a flavorful garnish

Soup is simply soup until you add the finishing touch.

For the Minnesota Star Tribune
November 8, 2017 at 9:04PM
Roasted Butternut Squash Soup With Brown Butter, Sage and Hazelnut Cream.
Roasted Butternut Squash Soup With Brown Butter, Sage and Hazelnut Cream. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

As someone who has written an entire cookbook on soups, I can tell you two things. Well, I could tell you a million things, but I'll limit myself to two. First, the right garnish can turn an ordinary soup into something special.

Second, after a full year of making soup, nothing looks better on a dinner table than a fork.

While my family can fully attest to the latter, the former is a lesson I learned on several occasions when I'd made a soup that seemed "OK," but no matter how many times I tested it, I couldn't make it great, until I added a garnish.

Take split pea soup, for example. It's a basic soup, usually made with split peas, onions, carrots and a ham hock. Maybe broth is added in place of water. Perhaps fresh thyme is used as one more flavor element.

I'm sure there are a million variations, but split pea soup is usually only split pea soup, no matter what you do — unless you garnish it.

Somehow, the addition of buttery pumpernickel croutons — or, better yet, buttery pumpernickel croutons mixed with small browned cubes of ham — turn a simple soup into something memorable.

Chili is another case in point. If you're anything like me, a good bowl of chili doesn't exist unless it's topped with a dollop of sour cream, a generous handful of shredded cheese and a sprinkling of diced red or green onions.

This week's roasted butternut squash soup is another example. The soup itself is simple: roasted squash and onions cooked with butter, sage and broth, all puréed until silky smooth.

What's not to love about a soup that's so easy and tastes so good?

Still, it has the potential to be great, and that's not hard to do. It takes only a few minutes to turn the sage-infused melted butter into a sage-infused brown butter, but the time is well spent.

Brown butter has a deep, nutty flavor that pairs beautifully with the sweet roasted squash. In this case, I decided to start the soup by browning the butter and simply reserved a portion to use at the end as a garnish. Easy.

To play on the nuttiness of the butter, I chopped toasted hazelnuts, and, since I was adding a little cream to the soup, I lightly whipped a little more and folded in the nuts. Garnish No. 2.

Of course, since I was already chopping up the hazelnuts, I decided to save a bit to sprinkle over the top of the soup. Garnish No. 3.

It took very little time to make these garnishes, but it turned a good basic soup into a spectacular bowl, fit for my holiday dinner table. Once you try it, you'll want it on yours, too.

Meredith Deeds is a cookbook author and food writer from Edina. Reach her at meredith@meredithdeeds.com. Follow her on Twitter ­at @meredithdeeds.

about the writer

about the writer

Meredith Deeds