Ask a Splendid Table: Sponge cake a lost favorite

Q My great-aunt used to make this incredible sponge cake when I was a child. Unfortunately, no one in the family has the recipe, and she's no longer with us to share it. I've tried to replicate it, but I can't. All I can remember is that it had 13 eggs. She made it in the kind of pan you use for angel-food cake. Can you help me?

DAVID from Memphis

A Thirteen eggs -- that must have been a stunning cake. I don't have a 13-egg sponge cake in the files that I've tested to be sure it is goof-proof, but I do have one from my book, "The Splendid Table," that is light yet velvety, and very good (see recipe). You make it in a layer-cake pan and it could easily be doubled into two layers.

At this time of year, I make up several layers at a time and freeze them for fast holiday desserts. A single layer is lovely topped with chunky fruit preserves and whipped cream. With two layers, you can do a fancy dinner-party cake by moistening them with espresso rum syrup (boil rum, sugar and vanilla, then stir in instant espresso powder). Frost the layers with either butter cream or whipped cream and top the cake with chocolate-covered coffee beans.

Reaching new heights Q I am almost 6 feet 5 and have my first apartment. What can I do about the kitchen counters? They are too low and my back is killing me.

BIG MAN in San Jose, Calif.

A Collect some big (the largest your counter can accommodate), thick butcher-block cutting boards. Stack them to the height right for you. Stop any slipping with wet paper towels between each one.

Chill those chipotles Q Two teaspoons of chipotle chiles in adobo were needed for a recipe. So what do I do with the rest of the can? Do I store the opened can? Do I leave it at room temperature? Do I just toss it, since it's as hot as Hades?

POISED WITH CHIPOTLES in Wilmington, Del.

A Oh, don't throw it out. For the uninitiated, chipotle chiles in adobo are the dried, smoked jalapeño chiles that are simmered into a sauce of tomatoes and vinegar. The combination is packed in cans and sold in supermarkets and specialty stores. I find them addictive. First, to keep them, turn the contents of the can into a jar, cover the chiles and sauce with a layer of vinegar and seal. This will keep in the refrigerator up to six months.

To use the leftovers, about half a chile and a spoon of its sauce is delicious stirred into mayonnaise. Finish with a bit of fresh lime juice and use the spread/dressing on sandwiches, poultry, shrimp, salmon and grilled lamb. Chickpeas and red onion tossed in the mayonnaise are a good salad atop tart greens.

One cook I know in Santa Fe, N.M., blends the chiles and their sauce into cream cheese and sour cream with fresh coriander and dips in warm tortilla chips.

Ripe summer peaches diced with onion, lime juice, red onion bits and the chipotle chile give you a memorable salsa.

Lastly, the chipotle in adobo is wonderful on slow-cooked pork shoulder (moist, succulent and nearly falling apart). Just wrap the hot pork and chiles in warm corn tortillas. Sometimes a little fresh lettuce and onion are a nice contrast on the pork before you fold over the tortilla.

Chocolate is bittersweet Q When a recipe calls for bittersweet chocolate, what kind should I buy?

A NEW BAKER from Paramus, N.J.