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Diner's Journal: Duluth restaurants

May 2, 2014 at 3:25PM
The Sitka-sushi sandwich at Northern Waters Smokehaus, shot Wednesday, June 19, 2013 in Duluth, MN. (ELIZABETH FLORES/STAR TRIBUNE) ELIZABETH FLORES • eflores@startribune.com
A smoked salmon sandwich with Asian accents at Northern Waters Smokehaus. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

The New Scenic Cafe belongs on any Duluth dining itinerary. These restaurants do, too.

The "Brady Bunch"-era truck stop that is now the Duluth Grill is off — way off — Canal Park's tourist track, but for those in search of an affordable and easygoing breakfast, lunch or dinner, this is definitely the place. Rather than relying upon a can opener or a microwave oven's defrost function, the kitchen casts a wide net in its search for farm-fresh ingredients, even transforming a portion of its parking lot into a vegetable and herb garden. Next up: an on-site orchard.

118 S. 27th Av. W., Duluth, 1-218-726-1150, www.duluthgrill.com

Northern Waters Smokehaus owner Eric Goerdt is one of the state's culinary giants, and a single meal from his cramped shop in the DeWitt-Seitz Marketplace reveals why. The deli case's exquisite smoked Lake Superior trout is a good place to start, followed by the whitefish sausage and smoked-paprika chorizo. Then work your way down the sandwich menu, taking care not to miss the locally baked bagel stuffed with velvety smoked Atlantic salmon and a schmear of green onion-packed cream cheese, or the smoked, curry-rubbed lamb, sliced thin and served on naan with a spiced yogurt.

394 Lake Av. S., Duluth, 1-218-724-7307, www.northernwaterssmokehaus.com

A driving force behind the welcome revival of downtown's E. Superior Street is the loft-like Zeitgeist Arts Cafe, one component of a lively gallery-cinema-theater complex. Chef Jeff Niceswanger's lunch menu offers a range of breath-of-fresh-air options: a brown basmati rice bowl filled with grilled vegetables and perfumed by a coconut-curry broth, a massive burger of lean grass-fed bison topped with Stilton and grilled romaine dressed with crumbles of blue cheese and pecan-smoked bacon.

222 E. Superior St., Duluth, 1-218-722-9100, www.zeitgeistarts.com

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about the writer

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

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