Restaurants: Talk foodie to me

Rick Nelson answers questions posed during recent live webchats.

August 17, 2012 at 8:17PM
Diners enoying the tasting menu at Travail
Diners enoying the tasting menu at Travail (Margaret Andrews/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Q: Which "chef-driven" restaurant does the best work when the chef is not on the premises?

A: The crew that Alex Roberts has in his kitchen at Restaurant Alma knows his ethos the way I know my way through my house in the dark. They've worked for him for years, and they're an extraordinarily talented group of chefs. I'd also put the crew at La Belle Vie up there, led by veteran chef de cuisine Mike DeCamp.

Q: Along with La Belle Vie, what other restaurants are offering tasting menus?

A: Plenty. Heartland Restaurant & Farm Direct Market, Heidi's, Vincent, Travail Kitchen and Amusements and W.A. Frost & Co. And, of course, there's Piccolo, where chef Doug Flicker creates a lineup that's essentially a build-your-own tasting menu. It is a remarkable dining experience, in every way.

Q: What's your must-order item (or two) on the menu at Saffron Restaurant & Lounge?

A: I'd definitely start (wait, scratch that: I'd definitely end) with the tagines; they are some of my favorite things to eat in the Twin Cities right now. The kofta meatballs are incredible. The whole roasted branzini, definitely. And if I were seated at the bar, I would order the lamb bacon BLT.

Q: Favorites at Bar La Grassa?

A: Where to begin? Calamarata with raw tuna. Soft eggs and lobster. Cavatelli with rabbit. Ricotta pizzette. Cauliflower gnocchi, with orange. How's that?

Q: What are your favorite Friday fish fry locations in the metro?

A: I'm all over the one at Red Stag Supperclub, which uses Wisconsin-raised tilapia. And the smelt fries (ordered a la carte) are phenomenal.

Q: My in-laws are Vietnamese. Where is the best Vietnamese restaurant in the Twin Cities?

A: In my humble opinion, it's Ngon Vietnamese Bistro. Chef/co-owner Hai Truong is really into beer, and I particularly admire how he sources his proteins and vegetables from local farmers, which gives his food a fresh, flavorful edge. It's an exceptional restaurant.

Q: What's your take on restaurants with "mixologists" rather than bartenders? A fad, or here to stay?

A: I think it's here to stay. It won't work for every establishment, but I'm loving the trend that cocktails are getting the same TLC as the food in the kitchen.

Q: If we receive very poor service, how should we tip?

A: I thought it was interesting that both Twin Cities etiquette experts I spoke with for a story on tipping said virtually the same thing: If the service is poor, tip 10 percent, and ask to speak to the manager. Stiffing the server isn't the answer: It could be misconstrued as having forgotten to tip, or the poor service you received could have been the fault of the kitchen.

Q: With baseball season on the horizon, what is your favorite food option at Target Field?

A: It's an old saw, but I'll say it again: the awesome grilled sausages from Kramarczuk's. This year I'm hoping for some decent Target Field ice cream.

The calamarata and raw tuna at Bar La Grassa
The calamarata and raw tuna at Bar La Grassa (Margaret Andrews/The Minnesota Star Tribune)
about the writer

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

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