WINE
I like a little leather and dirt to go with the inevitable big fruit in a California red, and the Montoya Monterey Pinot Noir provides it, and for a near-stunning $14. This earthy delight sends a steady beam of raspberry across the palate. It's rich and concentrated but smooth. Roast chicken is an optimum pairing, but this versatile red is also the kind of wine to order at a restaurant when four people order disparate dishes.
BILL WARD
