At Happy Gnome in St. Paul, craft brewers can clamor for a spot on the list of 89 taps.
Manager Emily Brink, who runs the beer program, aimed for a balanced list offering "something for everyone." Some beers brewed nearby, such as Bent Paddle Venture Pils and Steel Toe Size 7 IPA, are staples; longstanding national brands also are consistently available.
"Some of those national brands have been around upwards of 18 to 20 years," Brink said, citing Lagunitas, Founders and Bell's. "You have a paradigm that's quick and essential."
And, perhaps, some folks in the craft beer field worry, one that also has reached its saturation point.
The number of breweries is at a historic high and continues to climb. As of Dec. 1, the Brewers Association counted 4,144 breweries in the United States, topping the previous high-water mark of 4,131 in 1873.
Although beer industry observers have known this day was coming, the pace of growth was explosive: At the end of 2011, there were 2,033 breweries, or fewer than half as many as now. In 2005, there were only 1,447. And 25 years ago? The Brewers Association, a trade group for small and independent breweries, logged a mere 284 in 1990.
On average, the association said, two new breweries open every day.
On one hand, that makes this a golden age for beer lovers. It is easier than ever to find a great IPA (the most popular craft-beer style in America), stout or session ale at a bar or liquor store. Previously ignored styles such as gose and Berliner weisse have become trendy, while brewers have a free hand to experiment with Belgian IPAs or saisons packed with unusual herbs.