ANNE QUATRANO'S PORCHETTA

ANNE QUATRANO'S PORCHETTA

Serves 8.

Note: While this slow-roasted Italian roast pork is traditionally made with the loin, a skin-on fresh picnic ham makes a fine substitute. After such a long spell in the oven, the scored skin turns into crispy cracklings, and the meat separates into juicy hunks with only a prod. In fact, you can pull the ham apart and let it soak up the lemony drippings. Or the whole ham makes for a gorgeous presentation. This takes about 1 hour of hands-on time, and about 3 to 5 days total, with brining.

• 2 c. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided (use 1 c. salt for additional days of brining, if desired)

• 1 fresh bone-in ham (about 6 to 8 lb.)

• 3 tbsp. fennel seed, toasted

• 2 tbsp. red pepper flakes

• 1 c. olive oil

• 1 c. fresh lemon juice

Directions

Make a brine with 1 cup salt, 3 quarts water and 1 quart ice, and immerse the fresh ham in it (an 8-quart pot works perfectly, with the shank sticking up). Refrigerate for 1 day. Drain and repeat with a fresh brine for at least 2 days and no more than 4.

Drain and pat dry the ham. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Carefully score the skin, making sure to cut through the skin but not into the meat.

Reduce the temperature to 225 degrees and continue roasting, uncovered, for 16 to 18 hours. You know the ham is ready when, if you press the bottom with your fingers, you can easily dislodge a distinct muscle.

Transfer to a serving dish. Strain the pan juices and drizzle around the ham.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories719Fat54 g

Sodium880 mgCarbohydrates2 g

Cholesterol187 mgDietary fiber1 g

SEVEN-HOUR LEG OF LAMB

Serves 10.

Note: In France, le gigot -- the leg of lamb -- is popular as a daily restaurant special in neighborhood bistros and as a festive centerpiece for home entertaining. Everyone has a version. Among them are several recipes for a wholly counterintuitive seven-hour version that a few well-known inns and restaurants prepare. Some cover the lamb while it cooks to braise the meat; others leave it uncovered to slow-roast. I tried both and prefer the slow-roasted one. The meat comes out just as velvety soft, but the caramelized surface adds layers of flavor. This takes about 45 minutes of hands-on time, and two days total with refrigeration.

• 1 whole leg of lamb (about 6 to 8 lb.)

• 10 garlic cloves, peeled and halved

• 3 medium onions, halved and sliced

• 4 carrots, peeled, cut lengthwise and cut into long chunks

• 4 bay leaves

• 10 to 12 sprigs fresh thyme

• 2 tbsp. olive oil

• 5 roma tomatoes, diced

• 15 to 18 small white new potatoes

Directions

Rinse and pat dry the lamb and trim off any excess fat and inked markings. Season very well with salt and pepper. Place the garlic, onions, carrots, bay leaves, thyme and wine in a large roasting pan. Add the lamb and refrigerate, covered, overnight, turning once.

Flip the lamb again, and remove the thyme stems from the pot. Skim any fat from the surface. Add the tomatoes and potatoes and toss well in the juices. Increase heat to 350 degrees. Return to the oven for 1 hour, basting every 10 to 15 minutes. Arrange the lamb surrounded by the vegetables on a platter and shred the meat to serve it.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories750Fat40 g

Sodium151 mgCarbohydrates43 g

Saturated fat16 gProtein44 g

RICHARD BLAIS' 14-HOUR BRISKET

Serves 8.

Note: Here's a version of the brisket that won Richard Blais high marks on "Top Chef." For garnish, you may want to forgo the star-anise mashed potatoes his teammate served alongside, and instead opt for some plain boiled new potatoes or noodles to soak up the ample sauce. Also, a vinegary pickle or salad would be welcome with this sweet dish. You'll need to find a brisket untrimmed of its fat, which bathes it during the slow braise. Your best bet is to find a butcher who will unwrap a fresh whole brisket and cut you a lengthwise half, which makes for a beautiful presentation. This takes about 30 minutes of hands-on time, and 12 to 14 hours in the oven.

• Half of a whole untrimmed brisket, cut lengthwise (about 6 lb.)

• 3 tbsp. Cajun seasonings

• 1 c. spicy brown mustard (such as Gulden's)

• 3 c. dark brown sugar, lightly packed

Directions

Coat the brisket liberally with the Cajun seasonings and salt. Fire up a grill and grill the surface of the brisket aggressively, searing it well on each side for maximum flavor. Place the brisket, fat side up, on a large length of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Preheat oven to 225 degrees.

Combine the mustard and sugar and slather it well over (and under) the brisket. Close the meat tightly in the foil, and then wrap it in a second piece of foil. Place in a roasting pan with sides at least 1 inch high. Place in the oven.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories887Fat28 g

Sodium1,751 mgCarbohydrates85 g

Saturated fat9 gProtein73 g

Cholesterol211 mgDietary fiber1 g

Serves 6.

Note: Chef Billy Allin of Cakes & Ale restaurant in Decatur, Ga., likes to serve this dish with a snappy escarole and Parmesan salad and tomatoey beans. Perfect winter fare. This takes about 45 minutes of hands-on time, and at least 10 hours of cooking and advance work.

• 1 boneless pork butt (4 to 5 lb.), butterflied by the butcher

• 1 tbsp. minced garlic

• 2 tbsp. chopped parsley

• Zest of 1 lemon

• 5 tsp. kosher salt, divided

• Black pepper

• 1 large onion, sliced 1/2- in. thick

• 1 bay leaf

• 1/2 c. chicken broth

Directions

Have the butcher butterfly the pork so that it lies flat on a cutting board with skin side down and is close to an even 1 inch thick. Combine the garlic, parsley, anchovy and lemon zest and chop a little to mix. Season the pork with 2 teaspoons of the salt and a few twists of the pepper mill.

Rub the parsley mixture all over the surface. Roll the pork up like a jellyroll and tie at 1-inch intervals with butcher's twine. Season the outside with the remaining 3 teaspoons salt, making sure to be even, and turn the meat over to season the underside. This can be done 24 hours in advance and refrigerated, and should be done at least 2 hours in advance, leaving the meat at room temperature.

Preheat oven to 225 degrees. Put the sliced onion in a casserole or another cooking vessel deep enough to hold the pork, such as a Dutch oven. Season lightly with salt, add the bay leaf and place the pork on top and add the wine and broth. Cover tightly with a lid or a piece of parchment paper and foil. Put in the oven and roast for 7 to 8 hours. Remove from the oven and check that the meat is very tender. An inserted skewer should meet little resistance.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories497Fat25 g

Sodium1,809 mgCarbohydrates3 g

Saturated fat8 gProtein60 g