All ears

Locally grown corn arrived the other day at the farmers markets here, and I bought a few ears and headed home, anticipation hurrying my steps.

I shucked and rinsed the ears, sprinkled the corn with a little oil, salt, black pepper and finely chopped cilantro. I stuck the pan of corn under the oven broiler to brown for a few minutes and soon was enjoying this ancient grain with gusto.

Indigenous to the Americas, corn was cultivated thousands of years ago by American Indians, who declared the grain was the food of the gods that created the earth.

And not surprisingly, the noble grain was not only devoured for food but was also deified and used for celebrations.

Corn is a magnificent grain, dearly loved in this kitchen, and I enjoy it daily this time of year until its too-short season halts in late fall.

I often simply husk a few ears and drop into boiling water for a few minutes and enjoy with a drizzling of oil and spices.

At other times I cut corn kernels from the cobs and stir into fritters, muffins, corn bread batter, soufflé-like spoonbread and corn pudding. I also scrape the kernels from the cobs and mix with light cream or evaporated milk for down-home cream-style corn.

Several years ago during a visit to Mexico, I became hooked on corn salsa infused with chile peppers, the ingenious relish that has so many delectable variations.

I love best, though, grilled corn, hot and spicy and right off the fire, boasting flavors from around the world. For a delicious Caribbean jerk flavor, before grilling I rub the ears of corn with a little oil and then with a mixture of ground allspice, cinnamon, chopped thyme and crushed garlic.

At other times, I brush the corn with finely chopped herbs such as dill, sage, basil, oregano, rosemary or cilantro, or with crushed coriander, cardamom or cumin seeds. Red pepper flakes, minced garlic and chile powder also add "bite" to grilled corn.

But my recipe for corn quiche is fusion food at its best, a mixing of Old and New World culinary tradition. That dish, too, is just another excuse to enjoy the noble grain of corn while it is at its noble best.