All dressed up

Even when the health food movement got carried away against eggs, I think I held my ground. The only reason I am hedging on this is that the news hit the horizon a couple decades ago and that's more years than I care to remember. But the gist of the story was this: Back then, researchers said eggs increased cholesterol.

But trends in food and health change as often as hemlines. Now we hear (what many of us always knew) that eggs are healthy for us. The egg whites provide high-quality protein, and the yolks are a good source of absorbable iron. Recent research also shows that egg yolks ward against cataracts and macular degeneration.

That's good news for me, for I have wonderful memories of this old favorite, which years ago was certainly on the table for Easter dinner, but was popular year-round, too.

A cut-glass platter or two of deviled eggs sparkled at bridal parties, graduations, ladies' teas, cocktail sips, church dinners and suppers, and of course, at summer picnics, where they were served well chilled, nestled in a container or basket, offering a cornucopia of flavors.

Bits of smoked ham were a popular addition, as well as a dollop of chopped pickles, crumbled Cheddar or blue cheese. Other aficionados added a little chopped onion or dill or parsley to the filling, and on the Gulf Coast a bit of minced cooked shrimp or crabmeat was a favored affectation.

"You can never, ever have too many deviled eggs," I remember my Aunt Mary saying years ago as she gingerly placed a platter laden with more eggs than she would need, at her home in Biloxi-Gulfport.

The sisters from the Mercy Seat Missionary Club were pushing through her front gate, their strides hurried with anticipation of the "dressed up" eggs.

A jar or two of Dijon mustard is always in my 'fridge, and I sometimes stir a spoonful into the mashed egg yolks, along with a sprinkle of cayenne pepper and a bit of diced capers. My neighbor loves horseradish, and her deviled eggs are spicy and pungent, a favorite of mine. A friend from Martha's Vineyard adds a bit of lobster to her yolk mixture.

Another adventurous pal adds a dab of wasabi mayonnaise and minced green onions to his filling for a heady offering. And when the celebration is grand and all the bills are paid, or a dear friend wins the lottery, there is a platter of deviled eggs topped with Sevruga caviar. I love this shamelessly and offer these served with cheese straws or buttermilk cornmeal sticks, and a glass of champagne or chardonnay.

Deviled eggs are an easy-to-make dish: yolks from hard-cooked eggs (the correct culinary term rather than hard-boiled) mashed and gussied up, and often transferred via a pastry bag with a decorative tip, swirled for a pretty effect.

But times change and increasingly I find myself stirring the mashed yolks with a little grapeseed or olive oil rather than the traditional mayonnaise for a quick healthful alternative, and most takers never blink. No wonder; most variations are irresistible.

Here are my favorite recipes, plus tips on how to create the starting point, perfectly cooked hard-cooked eggs.

Perfect hard-cooked eggs have soft, tender egg whites and velvety egg yolks that are free of shiny yellow lumps. Some aficionados cover the eggs with water, bring to a boil, remove from heat and let set for 15 to 20 minutes. I am in the camp that simmers the eggs.

This is my method: Use eggs on hand in the refrigerator for several days, rather than freshly bought from the farmers market, since fresh eggs don't peel easily. For deviled eggs, I prefer large eggs or extra-large in a pinch, not jumbo size.

When you're ready to cook, remove the eggs from the 'fridge and let them warm to room temperature. Then place the eggs in a saucepan large enough to hold them in a single layer, not touching. Don't cook more than six or so eggs at a time. Cover the eggs with cold tap water, topping off with a generous inch of water.

Set the pan on high heat, uncovered, and bring to a full boil with the water bubbling. Immediately reduce the heat to low and simmer the eggs for 12 to 15 minutes, still uncovered, allowing the longer cooking time for extra-large eggs.

Drain the eggs and immediately cover with cold water. Let set for a few minutes and tap each egg gently with a heavy spoon to crack. Let cool for about 10 more minutes in the cold water, and then peel under running cold water, cracking as needed, removing any clinging bits of shell.