JayWay Travel leads one-week tours of Albania, starting in Tirana and ending in seaside Ksamil for $990 per person (jaywaytravel.com).
Where to eat: Mullixhiu serves up elevated takes on Albanian classics in Tirana (Rr. Parku i Madh; www.mullixhiu.com).
Where to sleep: Hotel de Paris is a comfortable boutique hotel in trendy Blloku. Doubles from $100 (Rr. Brigada e VIII 7; hoteldeparis.al)s
What to do: Bunk'Art is a fascinating tour through a Cold War-era bunker (Rruga Teki Selenica, Rruga Muhamet Deliu; bunkart.al).