It's a simple equation: The fatter the pork the better it tastes. When it comes to pork chops, consider the size of the cut as well as their source. They should be at least an inch thick, lest they overcook; center loin cuts are the best. But it also helps to know that, since the 1970s, pork has been raised to be leaner, more like chicken (remember the slogan, "the other white meat"?). But pork raised to be lean as chicken can be flavorless and dry.
The nicest thing about pork chops is that they cook quickly and adapt to a world of flavors: fall's apples and cider, winter's Sherry and dried fruit, spring's sweet peas and chives. By summer, they're great on the grill.
Pork chops are a quick-cooking, everyday cut. One sure-fire method is to brown the meat, then add liquid and finish the dish over low heat in a short braise. If there are any leftovers, reheat the meat, slice it thin and enjoy on a crusty roll.
Beth Dooley is a Minneapolis author.
