For those who either can't or don't drink alcohol, the options for nonalcoholic beer have been limited to mostly light-bodied, pale lagers. The methods used to remove the alcohol were so destructive to beer flavor that the options ranged from nearly palatable to terrible.
But a new breed of alcohol-free brewers have recognized a growing demand and are stepping up to meet it. They are crafting more flavorful, beer-like brews than was previously possible with newly developed filtration processes. These allow flavor compounds typically lost during de-alcoholization to be added back into the beer. They have also expanded the range of styles to include wheat beer, stout, IPA and amber lager, among others.
It's important to note, however, that although these are more beer-like than their predecessors, they are still de-alcoholized beers. If you approach them expecting normal beer, you will find them lacking. In flavor and texture, these are more like beer-flavored fizzy water. There are no life-changing IPAs here.
But if you adjust your mind-set and approach them as what they are, these new brews offer a delicious alternative to alcoholic beer. Refreshingly effervescent and carrying a satisfying amount of hop and malt character, they would be great for a hot day on the lake or patio. I happily drank every drop of each that I sampled.
The largest player in the market is Heineken. Its Heineken 0.0 was released in the United States in 2018. This no-alcohol beer is perhaps the ultimate lawn mower beer. It smells much like Heineken — lightly sweet impression with low-level grainy malt and spicy hops. The flavor is similar to regular Heineken, as well, but lacking in some of the body and sweetness of the original. It's a satisfying quaff when you're looking for something ultralight, yet still flavorful.
Bauhaus Brew Labs is one of two locally based breweries making nonalcoholic beer. Their occasionally available Das Homeguys NA is a de-alcoholized version of their Homeguys Helles Lager. Homeguys NA was conceived when head brewer Matt Schwandt learned that for medical reasons he could no longer drink alcohol. The beer stays fairly true to the Munich Helles style. Bready malt and light sweetness lead into moderate bitterness and a dry, crisp finish. The lemon peel and spice of European hops complete the picture.
Minneapolis-based Hairless Dog Brewing launched its zero-alcohol IPA on July 4. Home-brewers Paul Pirner and Jeff Hollander began formulating their beers four years ago when they realized they sometimes wanted to take a break from the buzz, but didn't want to give up flavor. Their beers are unique in that they are not de-alcoholized. They are alcohol-free from the start.
Whatever process they use to accomplish this — they wouldn't reveal the secret — leaves the Hairless Dog beers with the distinctive grainy flavor of unfermented beer, minus the sugary sweetness. This isn't necessarily a bad thing. That flavor blends nicely with the prominent citrus and juicy fruit hops of their flagship IPA. It also gives this beer a fuller flavor that makes it seem less like beer soda than some of the others. While the hop flavor and aroma are definitely there, a bit sturdier bitterness could step this beer up a notch.
