As the summer season fades, the colors and flavors of our garden vegetables turn darker, deeper and more flavorful. Take those earthy, sweet beets that seem to bridge late summer and early fall. While they are a hardy, reliable storage crop, one that we'll find in the co-ops through winter, beets are at their very best right now.
The local beets at our farmers markets come in a range of gorgeous hues — magenta, gold, pink, striped (called Chioggia).
When shopping, look for beets that are firm and plump with greens still intact and avoid any that look wrinkled or feel soft. Remove the greens before storing in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. These are also delicious sautéed in olive oil or butter as you would spinach or kale.
Beets can be polarizing, but I think those doubters have never tasted a fresh local beet that's been properly cooked. Roasted to be tender and slightly caramelized, beets become more of themselves. A splash of lemon, lime or blood orange awakens their sugary nature. I toss them in the oven like baked potatoes and they're cooked when a sharp paring knife easily pierces the center. There is no need to peel before roasting because the skin will rub right off after they've cooled.
Beware that red beets, whether cooked or raw, color everything they touch. Use care when slicing red beets, for they will stain white shirts, towels, etc. When added to risotto, tossed with pasta, or potatoes, red beets color the entire dish a shocking shade of bright pink.
Beets vary dramatically in size. One pound of beets (5 to 10 beets) will yield about 2 to 3 cups of cooked diced beets.
The subtly sweet beets are enhanced with tangy flavors — lemon, lime, vinegar, yogurt. Once roasted, the beet can be used in a number of different delicious ways:
Beet hummus: Purée roasted beets into your favorite hummus recipe and season with lemon juice.