If phrases such as "balanced wine" were in the dictionary, a picture of the Monte Oton Garnacha would be wedged in next to it. A lovely admixture of fruit (plums and dark berries) and tannins coat the palate and the throat with lovely, lively body and texture. Produced by Bodegas Borsao from soil near the inactive volcano Moncayo in Spain's Aragon region, this rustic but elegant red retails for $9-$10.

BILL WARD