A landscape like no other: Exploring the surreal southern end of Chile's Atacama Desert

When my plane touches down at the Desierto de Atacama Airport in northern Chile, it feels as if I've been launched out of orbit to some Martian landscape. Aside from the small terminal, there isn't another building in sight amid a panorama of parched earth.

About 15 miles away from the airport, I'm zapped back to reality at the small beach town of Bahía Inglesa, a toothpaste-blue colored bay with pearly white sands, where I enlist the help of local guide Carlos Pizarro, of Chillitrip, to explore the remote southern half of the Atacama Desert.

As we head down roads made of bischofite (a sea salt concentrate), we spot nomadic fishermen harvesting seaweed along wild desert beaches. There are also small port towns such as Caldera and Chanaral, where leather-faced men at waterfront markets sell freshly picked piure (a tomato-red sea creature) and tangy ceviches.

Pizarro takes me for a lunch of shrimp empanadas in the small fishing village of La Caleta on a rugged beach within Pan de Azúcar National Park. Just offshore, on the park's namesake island that looks like a sugarloaf, is a small colony of about 40 Humboldt penguins.

The sea here may be bountiful, but the land is barren and thirsty. This is, after all, the driest nonpolar place on Earth. It hasn't rained in the park in over a year. There are some weather stations in the Atacama that have never recorded a single drop. Pizarro says the area we're visiting is just sleeping for the moment. "It's waiting for the rain," he explains, "but when it comes, you'll see how alive the desert really is."

Sporadic rains every few years cause a desert bloom, when a blanket of pink, white and yellow flowers covers the mountain valleys near the only real city in these parts, Copiapó.

Copiapó sprouted from the desert in the 18th century as a gold boom town. It remains a prosperous copper-mining town to this day. If you've heard of it, it's no doubt because of the 33 miners who were trapped more than 2,300 feet underground at the nearby San José Mine. Their dramatic rescue after 69 days was memorialized in a 2015 movie staring Antonio Banderas.

My base is the Hotel Wara (from $200 a night), a stunning property decorated with perky cactuses and prismatic Andean textiles where Banderas stayed during the filming of "The 33." After a long afternoon traversing the coast, I set off on Day 2 with Pizarro to explore some ancient rock art in the nearby Quebrada de las Pinturas.

This jagged ravine is home to paintings made about 1,500 years ago. They depict llamalike guanacos and humanish figures, and give tantalizing clues about the Las Ánimas culture, whose people etched out a life in one of the planet's most inhospitable places.

The scenery shifts wildly from harsh and angular to soft and powdery, contradicting the stereotypes of deserts as empty, featureless wastelands.

Not far from the rock art, we find ourselves in the Mar de Dunas, a Sahara-like landscape of rolling sand hills more than three times the height of their African counterparts. The area is popular for trekking and sandboarding, but we've come to do a bit of off-roading.

After some heart-pumping action, we climb to the top of the towering Medanoso Dune to place colorful Andean blankets on the sand and watch as the setting sun sends shadows dancing across the desert.

We stop several times to acclimatize to the altitude, visiting the ghost town of Puquios and some small oases inhabited by the indigenous Kolla community, who sell colorful textiles and blocks of salty-sweet goat cheese. By the time we reach the park entrance, we're breathing 30% less oxygen at a height of about 13,000 feet.

Pizarro says this area is called the "sky of South America," as it's home to a collection of 16 summits over 20,000 feet. Nowhere beyond the greater Himalayas has such lofty earth. These barren volcanic peaks lie in the backdrop during our afternoon at Laguna Verde, an ethereal green lagoon populated by pink flamingos.

Walking the half-mile path down to the edge of the lagoon from the park's small mountaineering lodge is an exhausting task. The thin air seems to age me 30 years, while the strong solar rays sap my energy and suck all humidity from my bulging eyes.

The way back to Copiapó skirts the edge of the Salar de Maricunga, a blindingly white salt flat near the border with Argentina. Its bleached earth is in stark contrast to the burnt-brown hills of the Altiplano.

On July 2, southern Atacama became one of the only places in the world to witness a total solar eclipse. After a few fleeting moments in a dark spotlight, perhaps the region will finally get the attention it deserves.