A gluten-free flatbread with a French twist: socca

I wish this were a story about strolling through a picturesque market in Nice, France, where this is a classic dish. I would love to have encountered my first taste of socca served hot out of a pan sizzling over a fragrantly smoky wood fire. This isn't that story. No, I found out about socca by trying a recipe written by a French chef, and I fell hard for it.

Socca is like a pancake. It's so simple, just a mixture of chickpea flour and water, cooked in good olive oil. But it's what you do with it that makes it interesting.

You will probably devour the first one, unable to stop taking another savory, herby bite. But the versatility of the crispy pancake of chickpea goodness will keep you coming back for more.

Think of it as a flatbread, one that's delicious and fresh, suitable for your gluten-free friends. Then try it as a pizza crust, as I did in this recipe. For a hearty sandwich, use it like a slab of lunch meat, and pile on some Mediterranean flavors, such as artichoke hearts and pesto. Think of it as an eggless omelet, and stuff it with your favorite fillings.

Then you can branch out and add other seasonings to the batter. Whisk in Indian seasonings such as turmeric, cumin and chiles, and you will have a cheater version of besan puda, to serve with your favorite Indian meals.

If you love hummus, whisk in some tahini and lemon zest, and make a hummus-flavored pancake. If you make it in a smaller pan, so it's thicker, you can slice it up and eat it like French fries. Just make sure you dip it in aioli, the garlic-favored mayo, to honor the French origins of your new favorite snack.

This is a good recipe for meatless diners to master because it delivers quick protein, with all the fiber and nutrients of beans. If you are tired of whole beans, this is a great way to eat them.

Socca is just that good. And easy. You will make it all the time.

Serves 2 to 4.

Note: You'll find chickpea flour in the gluten-free section of your grocery store. Indian groceries sell besan, or gram flour, made from a slightly different kind of chickpea, which works well in this, too. If you come across a garbanzo-fava blend flour, that also can be substituted. From Robin Asbell.

• 1 c. chickpea (garbanzo) flour

• 1/2 tsp. salt

• 3 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

• 2 tbsp. fresh rosemary, coarsely chopped, divided

Directions

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. You'll need a 12-inch cast iron skillet.

In a medium bowl, whisk the chickpea flour and salt. Whisk in the 1 1/2 cups of water a little at a time, making a smooth paste before whisking in the remaining water. Preheat the cast iron pan in the oven for 5 minutes.

Variation: To make pizza, sprinkle with 1/4 cup shredded Parmesan, coarsely chopped olives and chopped tomato and return to the oven for 5 minutes. Cut in wedges and serve.

More options: Use fresh thyme or oregano instead of rosemary for the socca. Whisk a couple of tablespoons of tahini into the batter. Add a teaspoon or two of spice instead of herbs, then pair with a companion dip or soup. Sprinkle with sesame, hemp or chia seeds when you add the batter to the pan, for crunch.

Nutrition information per each of 4 servings:

Calories180Fat12 gSodium315 mg

Carbohydrates13 gSaturated fat2 gTotal sugars2 g

Exchanges per serving: 1 starch, 2 ½ fat.