Even as spring proves elusive, the season for restaurant debuts has arrived with a force.
Over the weekend, Spring Cafe (1360 Lexington Pkwy N., St. Paul, springcafestp.com) opened its doors at the historic Como Lakeside Pavilion to a pile of snow — but the weather didn't slow excitement much. The new eatery, owned by Matty O'Reilly of Republic, Delicata, Bar Brigade and Red River Kitchen at City House, replaces the former Como Dockside, which closed last November.
"It feels like the opposite of spring," O'Reilly said. "But that neighborhood is so loyal. They came out of the woodwork, and we had a pretty steady crowd of people there all weekend."
When the sun does decide to show its face, there will be plenty of patio seating — the space can hold up to 1,000 — for hungry parkgoers to sample a menu featuring beef brisket and fried chicken sandwiches as well as hot dogs, tacos, nachos and other casual eats. The two-level indoor space, which offers counter service and grab-and-go options for sandwiches and salads, holds about 100. As with O'Reilly's other establishments, chef J.D. Fratzke created the menu, and hired and trained the staff.
Spring Cafe is also partnering with Sweet Science, which will run the ice cream window. And Chowgirls Killer Catering will operate the third-floor event space.
"J.D. and I kind of came up with the phrase 'Americana picnic,' " O'Reilly said. "A lot of these dishes are sort of Americana barbecue that people might make in a public park — accessible food at friendly price points."
Wine, local ciders and beer (including a house brew, Como Sapiens IPA, from Lupulin Brewing Co., which will be on tap next week), plus kegged cocktails will be available.
As part of his contract with the city, O'Reilly has booked 100 days of programming on the adjacent outdoor stage this summer, with acts that include singer-songwriter types, a Cuban band and tap dancing. But Spring Cafe (open daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.) will also anchor Como Lake year-round — and O'Reilly expects to bring the live music vibe indoors in the colder months.