3 Twin Cities cocktails that balance juniper for a flowery, refreshing drink

December 2, 2019 at 9:55PM
A hibiscus mocktail as made by Spoon and Stable bar manager Jessi Pollak. ] JEFF WHEELER • Jeff.Wheeler@startribune.com Among the non-alcoholic cocktail offerings at Spoon and Stable, bar manager Jessi Pollak makes a cocktail with tea she blends from dried hibiscus flowers with coriander, cardamom, honey and juniper berries. She made the drink Wednesday afternoon, October 16, 2019 at the Minneapolis restaurant.
Spoon and Stable’s spirit-free Hibiscus features juniper berries. (The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Juniper doesn't deserve its maligned reputation in the cocktail world. "People associate juniper with gin — with the things that they dislike about gin — and that's too bad," says Keith Mrotek, bar manager at P.S. Steak in Minneapolis. "Because when it's in balance, juniper is delicate, super-floral and super-pretty. Mix it with citrus, and it's so refreshing."

As it sneaks its way into bar programs all over the Twin Cities, remember this about juniper: moderation is the key.

"It's a very strong flavor, like thyme or rosemary," says Jessi Pollak, bar manager at Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis. "It's so aromatic that it can overpower other ingredients. But that resin-ey bitterness can also add complexity."

Although Mrotek has created his own juniper extract ("It's a difficult ingredient to work with," he says), he recommends buying Mugolio, an imported syrup fashioned from foraged Italian mugo pine buds. "It's a great way to amplify the juniper notes and tap into that coniferous flavor profile," he says.

Try these 3 juniper cocktails:

Hibiscus
Spoon and Stable, spoonandstable.com

Bar manager Jessi Pollak offers a half-dozen spirit-free cocktails at this North Loop mixology hot spot, including a chilled tea that she brews after blending dried hibiscus flowers with coriander, cardamom, honey and juniper berries.

Mary of the Fall
Eat Street Social, eatstreetsocial.com

Juniper-seasoned salt is one of two secret weapons of this golden beauty; the other is allspice. A Wisconsin-made aquavit provides both its fall-leaves color and its spice-drawer flavor notes of caraway, coriander and star anise.

Dry Martini
Marvel Bar, marvelbar.com

"One of my favorite juniper bombs is to make our Dry Martini with Lawless' Juniper Gin, a gin that toes the line with how much single-note juniper can be present in a spirit and still be called 'gin,' " says General Manager Peder Schweigert.

about the writer

about the writer

Rick Nelson

Reporter

Rick Nelson joined the staff of the Star Tribune in 1998. He is a Twin Cities native, a University of Minnesota graduate and a James Beard Award winner. 

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