3 recipes that make the most of sweet corn season

We've all had to wait and wait, scanning farmers markets and cruising by roadside stands, until finally, our winter patience is rewarded. Corn is at its peak right now.

Sweet corn requires very little preparation, allowing us time to relax and chat as we shuck off the husks, sending strands of silk all over the back steps, and wait for the water to come to a boil. No rush!

I tend to approach corn as I do our first crop of asparagus — enjoying it night after night, eating with my hands, dripping with melting butter. Paired with sliced tomatoes and crusty bread, corn makes a fine dinner. Come late August, however, I'm ready for more complicated dishes. That's when I conjure up my grandmother's succotash, creamed corn and corn chowder recipes. We bake corn into a lusty corn pudding, fold kernels into batters for muffins and pancakes, and pile them onto polenta and nachos.

When shopping for corn, it's tempting to peel back the husk to check the interior, but please don't. Exposing a section damages the kernels and it's actually easier and far more reliable to look for bright green husks that are plump and heavy. This means the ear has matured and the kernels are large and juicy. It goes without saying that when you get the corn home, do not delay — enjoy it right away!

I grew up in New Jersey, where white Princess corn is revered. Here, most of our corn is yellow or bicolored. But it's the genetic variety, not the color, that determines corn's flavor and taste. The old-fashioned corn varieties sold in farmers markets tend to be delicate, their flavors corn-forward and their sweetness nuanced. Newer "supersweet" commercial varieties have been bred to ship and store. This is the corn you'll find in grocery stores offseason. It is sugary sweet, the kernels firm and chewy.

Early in the season, the texture of the truly fresh corn kernels tends to be light and milky. When it's left on the stalk for a few weeks, the corn's juices thicken into cream. As soon as corn leaves the field, its sugars begin to convert to starch and turn chalky, which explains why corn at farmers markets, picked the same morning it is sold, is exquisite and hard to describe. With aromas and flavors as elusive as soft rain and warm sun, corn is the taste of summer itself.

On the stove: Boil the corn in a big pot of salted water until the color of the kernels becomes more intense, about 4 to 5 minutes. Drain.

Save the cobs: Once you've enjoyed every kernel, toss the cobs into a pot and cover with water. Add a few herbs (bay leaf, fresh parsley) and half an onion and simmer for at least 30 minutes. Strain and use the stock for chowder and sauces just as you would chicken or vegetable stock. Once it's cooled, store the stock in the refrigerator in a covered container for up to three days or freeze.

Serves 4.

Note: Why heat up the stove? This blender soup is crazy quick, but you'll want to use the freshest, sweetest corn. Garnish with chopped salami, roasted corn kernels, feta cheese, a swirl of basil oil and corn nuts, and call it dinner. From Beth Dooley.

• About 3 to 4 ears corn, shucked

• 1 1/2 c. plain whole milk yogurt

• Juice of 1/2 lime, or to taste

• 1 clove garlic, chopped

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Pinch red pepper flakes, to taste

• Garnishes such as crumbled feta cheese, roasted corn kernels, diced salami, corn nuts, basil, herbed olive oil

Slice the kernels off the cobs and place in a blender. (Be sure to save the cobs for stock!) Add the yogurt, onions, lime juice, garlic and purée until smooth. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Transfer the soup to a container and chill until ready to serve, and serve with garnishes on the side.

Serves 4 to 6.

Note: Here the red peppers, corn and beans are lightly sautéed and then garnished with fresh herbs and cherry tomatoes. Serve on a bed of fresh salad greens. From Beth Dooley.

• 3 ears corn, shucked

• 1 medium red bell pepper

• 1 c. fresh lima beans or peas

• 1 tbsp. lemon juice

• 1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Salad greens for serving

• Chopped fresh mint, for garnish

Directions

Slice the kernels off the cob. Core, devein and seed the red pepper and dice into pieces the size of the corn kernels.

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high and add the corn kernels, red pepper and lima beans and sauté until the colors become bright but the vegetables are still crisp, about 2 minutes. While the vegetables are still warm, toss in the lemon juice and chopped thyme. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve over the greens and top with the tomatoes and garnish with chopped mint.

Serves 4 to 8.

• 3 tbsp. butter, divided

• 1/4 c. fresh breadcrumbs or panko

• 4 to 5 ears of corn, shucked

• 2 shallots, minced

• 1 c. heavy cream

• Dash of Worcestershire sauce

• 1 tsp. salt

• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

• 6 eggs, lightly beaten

• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Using about 2 tablespoons of the butter, grease a 4-cup baking dish and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Cut a piece of aluminum foil large enough to cover the baking dish and grease with the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Cut the kernels from the cob into a bowl to catch all the corn milk.

In a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade, blend 1 cup of the corn kernels with the shallots and cream. Add the Tabasco, Worcestershire, salt and pepper and purée. Turn into a medium bowl and add the eggs, remaining corn, thyme and cheese.

Pour into the prepared dish and cover with the buttered aluminum foil. Place the dish into a larger baking dish and fill the larger pan with boiling water, about two-thirds of the way up. Put the pan into the oven and bake for about 45 minutes. Remove the aluminum foil and continue baking until the top is lightly browned and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 15 minutes.