On a recent trip home to Albuquerque, I ate at a trendy new breakfast spot, drove past one of many new breweries and took in a powerful play performed by top-notch actors.
That's when it hit me: The city where I grew up has grown up, too. It has hip neighborhoods, places that illuminate its American Indian and Western heritages, and internationally acclaimed art galleries. People know Albuquerque, aka the Duke City, for its International Balloon Fiesta, which ends its 10-day run Sunday. If you haven't been, I hope you'll make the trip someday. There's nothing like the sight of 550 balloons soaring toward cerulean skies at the crack of dawn. But my hometown — less prominent than sexy Santa Fe — offers plenty of reasons cultural, culinary and quirky for you and your family to stick around. Here are some of my favorites:
Sandia Peak Aerial Tramway
The "tram," as we call it, is open all year with few weather exceptions. The 15-minute ride inside glass-enclosed cars takes visitors 2.7 miles up, offering stunning, and changing, views of mountains, canyons and forests. You can take in more of New Mexico's rugged beauty from an observation deck on top. Bring a sweater, and always call ahead to confirm that the tram is running. $20 for adults, $12 for children, under 5 free. No reservations. 1-505-856-1532; sandiapeak.com.
Hike the La Luz Trail
Prefer those panoramic views with your feet on terra firma? This is a bragging-rights option, but only if you're an experienced hiker and you've been in Albuquerque two or three days to acclimate to its mile-high elevation. The popular trail, with changing vegetation, massive rocks, lovely wildflowers and abundant switchbacks, is nearly 9 miles one way (you can ride the tram down), with the highest point surpassing 10,000 feet. Wear sturdy shoes, a hat and sunscreen. Pack plenty of water and snacks. Pack rain gear, too. (Hey, this is New Mexico.) laluztrail.com.
Historic Nob Hill District
Whew! Got exercise out of the way. Let's go shopping! The Nob Hill of my youth was little more than one craft store where I bought Styrofoam balls for a school science project. Today, the trendy area spans a full mile along Central Avenue on famous Route 66. Spend a day at an abundance of boutiques, galleries and restaurants, where college students, professionals and locals flock to outdoor tables. Remember to take note of the area's many neon arches.
University of New Mexico
The campus of UNM, not far from Nob Hill, is definitely worth a stroll. The dramatic home to the state's largest university features Pueblo Revival architecture; a beloved duck pond where many a graduation or wedding photo has been shot, and several museums, including the Maxwell Museum of Anthropology, which offers an informative overview of Southwestern culture.
The Frontier restaurant
This Albuquerque institution opened in 1971 across from the university and looks a lot like it did back then. The food is still great — fast, filling, cheap — and the people-watching is better. Fill up on burritos and roasted green chile (that's chile with an "e") offered up with homemade flour tortillas. Or take my hint and save room for the Frontier's famous sweet rolls. Enjoy the large collection of John Wayne art on the walls, too, built up over the years by owners Larry and Dorothy Rainosek. Open daily from 5 a.m. to 1 a.m. 1-505-266-0550; frontierrestaurant.com.
Historic Old Town
This is a charming, albeit touristy, spot, where you'll find souvenirs, including Indian blankets and turquoise jewelry, pottery, rugs and playful alien items. The 10 blocks around its central plaza include art galleries and restaurants. Musicians frequently perform in the plaza square.