With its crisp texture but relatively full-bodied mouthfeel, albariño is a wine for any time of the year. The 2012 Señorío de Cruces Rías Baixas Albariño ($15) is a splendid rendition, bright and juicy and citrusy at the outset and then plush and silky on the midpalate and finish. The salinity and acidity make this Spanish white a versatile food wine; options include salmon, tuna and lighter fish with heavier sauces; roasted root vegetables, and risotto with mushrooms or actually most anything.

Available at Cellars (Plymouth and Roseville), BrightWines, Solo Vino and South Lyndale.

BILL WARD