Sorry, I can't resist: There's tons of flavor in the Duorum "Tons" Branco ($13) from Portugal. "Branco" translates as white, by the way, and "Tons" actually means tones, as in the multihued nature of the Douro River along which these grapes are grown. And what are those grapes? Who cares when the result is such a ripe, juicy, balanced wine? (OK, if you must know, it's a blend of viosinho, rabigato, verdelho, arinto and moscatel. Happy now?). I expected sauvignon blanc notes upon sniffing the citrusy, grassy aromas, but this beauty offers up lush fruit leavened by lovely minerality and acidity. That makes it a versatile food wine: Think shrimp cocktail (or shrimp anything), fried chicken (or anything chicken) and spring greens (or any greens).

Available at Big Top (Hopkins), MGM (South St. Paul and Hopkins), France 44, North Loop, South Lyndale, Northbound (Cambridge), Andy's Crossroad and Andy's Marketplace (Rochester).

BILL WARD