Cune Rioja Crianza

“Fresh” and “clean” are terms usually associated with white wines. But they absolutely, positively apply to the 2012 Cune Rioja Crianza ($15). The vanilla notes from the American oak are leavened by lively berry/cherry fruit, with some citrus and spice on the ample finish. Made primarily with tempranillo (plus a bit of garnacha and mazuela), this is a classic effort from Spain’s most ballyhooed region, combining Old World earthy, herby goodness with New World-ish soft tannins, medium body and smooth texture. Burgers and brats (is it still corn-dog season?), pizza and medium-­seasoned Tex-Mex dishes are among the ideal accompaniments.

Available at Elevated, Big Top (Minnetonka), North Loop, Thomas, South Lyndale and Richfield munis.

BILL WARD