Wine

Few if any countries have seen a sharper increase in the quality of their wines than Greece. The Boutari Moschofilero ($15) has always been tasty, but the 2014 might be the large winery's best effort ever. With a great mix of crispness and roundness, this white gem is packed with citrus and pear flavors, plus a persistent fruit/acid balance that makes it get better and better on the midpalate and finish. Oh, and it's delicious. Fruits of the sea — octopus, squid, sea bass, tuna — are an optimum pairing. Or just sip it on the patio and find yourself transformed to a sunny Greek isle.

Available at Andy's and Apollo (both in Rochester), the Vintage, Cheers, Century, Cellars, Surdyk's, Lunds & Byerlys and others.

BILL WARD