2014 Verus Furmint

It's always seriously delightful to find a wine that a guy could sit and just smell. The 2014 Verus Furmint ($15) is that kind of wine, with a fantastic array of floral, fruit and herb/spice notes on the nose. But this Slovenian white made from a Hungarian grape delivers just as much on the palate: vibrant citrus and stone-fruit flavors, steely minerality, precision, spot-on acidity and about as mouthwatering a finish as you'll ever find. Which makes it almost too quaffable despite the complexity; good thing it weighs in at just 12 percent alcohol. Fried fish or fowl, or most any preparation of fish or fowl, will sing with this beauty, and spring salads provide a nigh unto perfect pairing.

Available at Top Ten/Northgate, Solo Vino, Stinson, Thomas, North Loop and Bacchus.

BILL WARD