2014 Falesco Tellus Chardonnay

When chardonnay is the subject, Italy is not the first (or second, or third, or …) country that comes to mind. But as with its French sibling cabernet, this mega-popular grape is being grown in some dandy spots by Italian vintners. The 2014 Falesco Tellus Chardonnay ($15) emanates from Umbria and lands in the lean, clean, green-fruit (kiwi, lime, green apples) realm. It's fresh on the nose, palate and finish, an apt reflection of the stainless-steel fermentation. "Tellus," by the way, is Latin for "earth," and some mighty fine earth sits under the vines that produced these grapes. This is crisp enough for BLTs or caprese and a great match for barbecued chicken or shrimp, as well as raw fish.

Available at all Lunds & Byerly's stores.

BILL WARD