2013 Luccarelli Puglia Negroamaro

Wines can be one-dimensional and still work, but what a pleasure it is to come across one with a mélange of aromas and flavors. The 2013 Luccarelli Puglia Negroamaro ($14) offers up dark fruit, spice and coffee/toffee aromas and flavors in almost never-ending layers. This red from southern Italy's Apulia region is rustic but rich, with plenty of stuffing and just-right grip from the tannins. It's harmony in a bottle despite everything that's going on. Negroamaro reputedly has been grown in this area since the 6th century B.C., and while the grapevines for this wine are old, they're not that old (more like 50-plus years). This red can provide winter warmth with hearty stews and soups, but it's also a super match for grilled beef, brats or pork tenderloin.

Available at Sunfish, Whole Foods (Maple Grove), Thomas, Stinson, Shakopee Wine Cellars and Scott's Liquor.

BILL WARD