A prime priority for a guy who samples a couple thousand wines a year is to not get jaded. It helps immensely when something truly exciting like the 2011 Ippolito 1845 Res Dei Ciro Bianco ($19) comes along. A racy white made (the grape is greco bianco) from the southern Italian region of Calabria, this wine has what we cork dorks call "lift," a minerally energy that beautifully complements the gorgeous melony/citrusy fruit. Try it with Calabria's most popular seafood, swordfish or tuna, or with most any seafood or fowl dishes. Available at Sentyrz, Thomas, Pairings, McDonald's, Eden Prairie (Prairie Center Drive) and I Nonni.

Bill ward