I knew I had found something special several years ago when I had my first glass of Martin Codax Albariño ($15) at 112 Eatery: It paired beautifully with both rustic scallops and the restaurant's signature bacon, egg and harissa sandwich. That's no mean feat, and subsequent tastings showed the wine to be consistently splendid every vintage. This citrusy Spanish white manages to be both lush and crisp, with a similarly unusual dance between smoothness and oomph. Try it with shellfish or any fish -- and feel free to throw in some harissa. Available at Surdyk's, WineStreet Spirits, Sam's Club, 1st Grand and Knollwood Liquor.