Yes, Virginia, there is not only a Santa Claus but also good pinotage from South Africa. Landskroon and Ken Forrester are worth checking out, but the most interesting one I've tried is the Lion's Drift Pinotage ($16). It's replete with big, bold, dark fruit that has seen some seriously toasty oak (my way-better half said it "smells like Liquid Smoke"). But the fruit, alcohol, oak and acidity mesh nicely, especially on the lengthy finish. Try it with barbecued ribs, roast beef, smoked cheese or wintry soups and stews. Available at South Lyndale, Byerly's/Lunds, France 44 and Lakeside.