The grape formerly known in South Africa as "steen," which tended to not impress in the renditions that reached these shores, is back in good form with its original name, chenin blanc. The Landskroon Paarl Chenin Blanc ($11) has enticing lemon-lime flavors and just enough crispness (the label reads "dry," but it seemed a touch off-dry to me), plus a nice kick at the end. Pair it with salads containing citrus or other fruit, baked or grilled chicken or shrimp and cold summer soups. It's also a swell sushi wine. Available at Liberty Village, Edina York Av., Buffalo, Century, Richfield muni, Thomas and Westside (Waite Park).