Wine

One of my favorite grapes is the “forgotten pinot.” The other pinots (noir and gris/grigio) have gained enormous popularity, but pinot blanc is every bit as worthy. The 2012 Hugel Cuvee “Les Amours” Pinot Blanc ($16) is an exemplary introduction, with ripe melon flavors, minerally goodness (think slate) and ample body, but lightness at the long finish. Pork roast and most fowl dishes make swell accompaniments. Available at France 44 and Haskell’s.

BILL WARD