Whenever people say they like sauvignon blanc but not chardonnay, or vice versa, I steer them to the Four Vines "Naked" California Chardonnay ($14). This lush and lovely unoaked white straddles the line between the two grapes, with lip-smacking citrus and peach flavors, smooth texture and a clean, lively finish. Try it with calamari or other fried fish or fowl, mild curries and a perennial challenge, asparagus. Available at Century, Vinifera, Liquor Boy, Maddie's, Ken & Norm's, Summit and others.