Tired of waiting for something resembling spring? A few sips of the 2012 Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano ($14) is just the antidote. Filled with citrus and other fruit flavors, plus a dollop of nuttiness, this crisp, refreshing white from Tuscany boasts mouth-watering acidity and a marvelously clean finish. It's a natural for seafood, grilled or prepared indoors, and also will play well with arugula and other sharply flavored greens. Vernaccia, by the way, was the first grape to be recognized in the Italian government's DOC program — and remains one of the best.

Available at France 44, Lake Wine & Spirits and the shops at I Nonni and Domacin.

Bill Ward