When wine is described as earthy or dusty, it refers to texture, not flavor. And the Chateau La Boutignane Corbières Classique Rouge ($12) is a splendid example. This hearty wine is friendly at the outset and then dark and, yes, dusty on the mid-palate. Firm tannins give this French red a dandy mouth feel and finish. This blend of carignan, syrah, grenache and cinsault is somehow both rich and dry, making it an optimum choice with roasted meat, fowl or fall vegetables or hearty cheeses. Or most