WINE DEAL

I loves me some Müller-Thurgau, despite its legacy of being the prime ingredient in all those Liebfraumilch confections back in the day. One of the very best is the Alois Lageder Müller Thurgau ($18), a juicy, minerally mouthful of freshness. Coming from Alto Adige, an Italian region annexed from Austria after World War I (most locals still speak German), this refreshing white is clean and laden with apple and citrus flavors. Try it with virtually any seafood preparation, and chicken soups cozy right up to this bracing delight.

BILL WARD