The folks in Washington might be on to something. They recently tripled their plantings of pinot gris, and the 2012 Canoe Ridge Horse Heaven Hills Pinot Gris ($16) provides ample evidence why. Juicy and refreshing, it's loaded with citrus and stone-fruit flavors, with a long, clean finish. Ideal for meaty fish such as halibut and salmon, it's also well-suited for salads that evoke an alleged season called spring. Available at Haskell's, South Lyndale, the Wine Market and Lowry Hill.