I'm almost convinced that the best we can expect of an under-$10 wine is a friendly, tasty, fairly simple offering with some life to it. The 2011 Zestos Old Vines Garnacha ($9) from Madrid offers all that and more, with surprising depth and complexity from the layers of fresh dark fruit flavors. The just-firm-enough tannins provide some nice backbone, and the finish is clean but hearty. This is a super pizza wine that also should play well with burgers, sausages, pulled pork and roasted winter veggies. Available at Franklin Nicollet, South Lyndale, Zipp's, Thomas and others.