Pinot noir’s popularity continues unabated, so finding an under-$20 gem is not getting any easier. Well, say hello to the 2011 Ritual Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir ($19), which drinks way above its price point. It smells like perfectly ripe cherries, but the fruit flavors are darker, with spot-on tannins and a touch of smoke, plus plenty of depth and structure. This Chilean red was made for fall roasts (fowl, veggies) and would be especially handy to have around on the fourth Thursday of November. Available at France 44, Kowalski’s (Uptown), Oaks Wine & Spirits, Thomas, North Loop and South Lyndale.