Talk about timely. The 2010 Sivas-Sonoma Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel ($17) is a great choice not only for nip-in-the-air weather like we've seen lately but also for what's left of grilling season. Not as heavy or jammy as many zins, it's still a bold, spicy red with surprising smoothness and a nice, long finish. Try it with pork or chicken slathered with barbecue sauce but also with hearty pasta sauces and Tex-Mex dishes. Available at Sorella, Old Vine and Tonka Bottle Shop. BILL WARD