Comfy-cozy, hip-but-not-too atmosphere? Oui. Delicious, wine-friendly noshing food? Si. A wide-ranging list with something for imbibers at all levels? You betcha. Cin cin to Toast. Bonus props for the wine list's combination of mainstays augmented with newbies from around the globe. And especially for what comes out of the kitchen, which is severely limited by the building's historic preservation standards.