I've always loved that Minnesota Nice way of saying "that's different" or "that's interesting" when we don't particularly like something. Well, the 2013 Ontañon Maceración Carbonica Rioja ($13) is different and interesting, and the key is in the name. The winery has taken the carbonic-maceration method used to make Nouveau Beaujolais (with whole grapes fermented in a carbon-dioxide-rich environment) and applied it to tempranillo grapes. The result tastes a bit primal and rife with cherry-berry flavors that jolt the palate because of low tannins. The finish is clean, vibrant and long. It's best served chilled, and with roasted fowl and/or root veggies.
Available at Cellars, Solo Vino, North Loop and South Lyndale.
BILL WARD
