I love the way vintners have reacted to the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement by making the varietal in an ever-widening range of styles. The 2012 Lone Birch Yakima Valley Chardonnay ($12) is surpassingly fresh and seriously crisp, with lovely pear and citrus flavors softening the mid palate and finish. This Washington white is truly a chardonnay for people who say they don't like chardonnay, but fans of the grape should find plenty to like here. Try it with salty appetizers, grilled chicken and mildly spicy Mexican or Asian dishes.

Available at Oaks Wine & Spirits, River Liquor Store, Skyway, McDonald's, Apple Valley (157th St. W.) and others.

BILL WARD