Security: High security is obvious at major tourist locations but especially the Pantheon area, Trevi Fountain, train station and outside the walls of Vatican City. I observed uniformed military with automatic weapons standing by as crowds thronged, part of an anti-terrorism effort, Operation Safe Streets. Regular police were obvious, but they mainly were doing normal duties such as shooing away motorbikes and stopping people from climbing into the fountains.

Traffic: Central Rome's tiny winding streets feature frustrated drivers of small cars and motorbikes who grudgingly make way for pedestrians. Meanwhile, clueless tourists wander in the middle of streets. Dodging traffic and walking on the uneven cobblestones may pose a greater hazard to tourists than crime.

Taxis: All guidebooks have warnings to take only marked white taxis with signs on the top and fares painted on the side. But even then, you can't hail a taxi in Rome. You must go to a taxi stand, and even then one may or may not come. And taxi drivers mostly don't speak English and seem grumpy, probably because of the nightmarish traffic. I have one piece of advice: walk.

Walking: Rome's subway system is outside the central city where tourists congregate. Its buses also have a traffic problem because they are forced to inch down congested avenues. Walking is the fastest way to get around. Bring good shoes.

Money: The U.S. dollar is holding up well against the euro. I did not find Rome too expensive.

Food: Any sit-down restaurant will give you something wonderful to eat, good service and good, inexpensive wine. Most restaurants offer appetizer, first, second and third-course choices. But you really only need to choose one course to be satisfied. A few restaurants carry hefty price tags, about 20-30 euros for an a la carte main dish. But most restaurants are extremely reasonable. Avoid Italian fast-food places and any mention of McDonald's or Subway.

Getting home: Expect multiple layers of security at the Rome Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) Airport terminal 5 for departing passengers to North America. Ellen Creager