Thrift stores with deals

As the economy spirals down, so do people's shopping destinations. Consumers travel down the food chain from department stores to discounters to consignment and finally to the dumpster-diving bottom: thrift stores. Many who have never considered thrift-store shopping will find themselves pleasantly surprised at the deals. When 17-year-old Rachel Moen of Minneapolis got an invitation to Barack Obama's inauguration, she took her mom's suggestion and went to Second Debut in St. Louis Park, an upscale thrift shop. She found a coffee-colored strapless gown and wore it to the ball. "I loved it. I got tons of compliments on it," said Moen, who paid $68 for the dress.

Many shoppers who never used to dive below Target clearance are now testing the waters at thrift stores. Sales at Arc's Value Village stores are up 9 percent over 2008. At its customer appreciation sale last month, the number of customers making purchases increased by 14 percent. Nearly all thrift stores are seeing increases, but quality donations are down, said Pam Carlson, spokeswoman for Arc's Value Village. The Salvation Army has started strategic donation events. They set up donation trucks outside churches and businesses to make it easier for people to donate, said spokeswoman Annette Bauer.

I spent a week checking out more than a dozen local thrift shops. It's a fact -- some of them lack charm. They smell, floors are dirty, and merchandise looks shoddy. At some places I'd sooner take my chances buying a non-returnable pair of pants than to venture into a dressing room with Taco Bell wrappers lying in the corner. Maybe I'm exposing a middle-class bias, but a lot of thrift stores don't seem to understand that most shoppers today, regardless of income, prefer to shop in a clean, well-lit environment with clothes or household items that can be used immediately without much fuss or muss (but launder anyway, even if new).

Every time I've been to the Salvation Army flagship store in Minneapolis' Warehouse District, the dirty floors, poor organization and shabby merchandise in need of quality control shut off my spending valve. But on a recent visit, I went downstairs to the "as is" area, which I mistakenly thought was one step down in quality from the first floor. Instead, I found new merchandise from area retailers such as Target, some with original price tags attached. Finally, a reason to come back.

If you're not a resale shopper, here are some excellent places to start. Prices might be slightly higher than at other thrifts because pre-pickers have already separated the castoffs from the treasures. Diggers looking for rock-bottom prices will be happier at the Goodwill outlet and Salvation Army.

I want a clean, shiny store with designer labels that don't look secondhand and I'm willing to pay a little more for it.

You'll love Second Debut (4300 W. 36 1/2 St., St. Louis Park, 952-922-9640, www.seconddebut.org) with its maple floors, chandeliers and sunny displays. A Goodwill employee picks out a fraction of the best designer donations. Handlers steam all garments and put them on quality hangers with size rings. Shoppers can also put their names on the wish list for a certain designer, such as D&G. Prices on men's and women's fashions are higher than at Goodwill, but there's no time wasted digging for these gems. The art department is OK but improving. Upcoming event: Spring designer fashions will hit the racks for the first time from 7 to 9 p.m. Feb. 12. Tickets are $5 in advance or $7 at the door. Proceeds go to Goodwill. Another reason to shop Second Debut/Goodwill? Its seven-day money-back guarantee amid a universe of "all sales final" competitors. Runner-up: Hope Chest in Navarre and St. Paul.

I want plenty of room to peruse current designs and designers and cool music while I shop.

Buffalo Exchange (2727 Lyndale Av. S., Minneapolis, 612-871-9115, www.buffaloexchange.com), unlike Everyday People (Dinkytown, Uptown and St. Paul locations), doesn't crowd too much merchandise into too little space. The fashions for men and women skew younger but classic. Shopper James Judge of Minneapolis finds Rock & Republic jeans for $45, which push $200 when new. He likes finding secondhand pieces from designers that aren't sold new in the Twin Cities. BE, which is a for-profit national chain, also accepts clothing to buy or sell. Returns are allowed for store credit within five days.

I want vintage fashions for every day and dressy attire at reasonable prices.

Every vintage store defines vintage differently. Hard-core vintage shops such as Corner Store or Via's in Minneapolis can be pricey. For reasonable prices but not as cheap as thrift stores, try Rewind, Lula or Tatters. All have the clothes cleaned and displayed in pristine condition.

Think of Tatters (2928 Lyndale Av. S., Minneapolis, 612-823-5285, www.tattersvintageclothing.com) as a teddy bear wearing a motorcycle jacket. The store looks a little rough at first but its fantastic selection of Levis 517s and 501s, tuxedo jackets, polyester and World War II vintage is affordably priced and in excellent condition. Upcoming event: Tatters' semiannual 50-percent-off storewide sale is Feb. 28-March 1.

Lula (1587 Selby Av., St. Paul, 651-644-4110) specializes in menswear and womenswear 25 years old or older. Dresses are a specialty.

Rewind (2829 NE. Johnson St., Minneapolis, 612-788-9870, www.rewindminneapolis.com) mixes vintage and contemporary women's fashions. The selling space is crowded, but the vibe is bright and fun. Jewelry and accessories are a strength.

I want cheap prices and good selection without smell or clutter.

Salvation Army and Goodwill do the Lord's work, but they need to get a retail clue and clean up their stores and merchandising. (Admittedly, some locations are better than others.) On the for-profit side, Unique Thrift Store (Burnsville, 952-898-0988, Columbia Heights, 763-788-5250, New Hope, 763-535-0200 and St. Paul, 651-489-5083) and Valu Thrift (2145 Old Hudson Rd., St. Paul, 651-702-5920), owned by the same company, show the charities how it should be done. Aisles are wide, merchandise is sized, and smells are neutral. At Savers, you're a notch above the Goodwill/Army but still a notch below Unique. Although Unique and Savers are for-profit companies, they indirectly help local charities by buying donations from Arc, Courage Center, Lupus Foundation, Vietnam Veterans of America and others. Upcoming event: Storewide 50 percent-off sale on Presidents Day Feb. 16 at Unique and Valu stores.

John Ewoldt • jewoldt@startribune.com or 612-673-7633. If you spot a deal, share it at www.startribune.com/blogs/dealspotter.