The Twin Cities taproom boom continues unabated. July saw three new brewery openings in as many weeks, giving area beer fans several new options to gather for a pint. From Minnesota's first ever woman-owned and -operated brewery to a tiny, two-barrel taproom with plans to add a comedy club, these newcomers bring unique twists to the metro area's fastest-growing trend.
Here is a rundown of the latest spots with my preference for what to try at each.
Sisyphus Brewing
This takes its name from a 1942 essay by French philosopher/novelist Albert Camus in which he compares the "absurd" reality of the human condition — an endless repetition of mundane tasks — to the plight of Sisyphus, a character of Greek mythology who is condemned to eternally push a boulder up a hill only to see it roll back down. For Sisyphus Brewing founders Sam Harriman and Catherine Cuddy, this condition wasn't cause for despair, but a call to action.
They quit their corporate jobs so that Harriman could pursue his true passion, stand-up comedy. A cross-country comedy tour with stops at several breweries led them to an even stronger passion — making beer.
With a two-barrel brewhouse, Sisyphus is the Twin Cities' smallest brewery. This makes operating the brewery a Sisyphean task. As quickly as the couple can fill a serving tank, it is drained by thirsty patrons. This works with their model, though, which calls for frequently changing the lineup of brews sold only at the taproom. Expect to see a different beer list on every visit.
The Sisyphus taproom is a super-casual space that eschews fancy decor to let the beer and the people speak for themselves. Two long shuffleboard tables provide the arena for some friendly competition. Plans for the space include a 100-seat theater for live comedy and music shows.
Beer pick: Brett IPA. Brettanomyces — "Brett" for short — is a wild strain of yeast that brings earthy and succulent fruity notes to beer. Combined with an abundance of citrusy hops, it results in a beer that is a cornucopia of pineapple and tropical fruits. Bitterness is moderate, but enhanced by leathery flavor from the yeast. It's good as is, but I would be intrigued to see what even more hop character would bring.
Sisyphus Brewing, 712 Ontario Av. W., Mpls., no phone, www.sisyphus brewing.com. Hours: Wed.-Thurs. 3-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. noon-1 a.m.